So I'm back in LA (wooo, I can drink the water!), and wanted to give you some observations and thoughts on Morocco. In no particular order, here's what I got for you
1. MOROCCO IS A LAND OF TWO FACES
There is the wonderful, super friendly, generous side. And then there is the touting, in your face, "good price" side that sees you as a walking ATM. Now this happens in many of the developing countries I've visited. After all, on my budget trips (This one averaged about $63 a day), I'm spending 4 times what the average Moroccan makes in a day from work. In some places I've been the gap is even more. In some places less. So I want to say, that I don't think it's wrong that this is the attitude. It is a little unfortunate, as it makes for some rather frustrating encounters (see endless list of touts in the emails) but it also makes for rather cool ones (sleeping Kasbahs, sharing cuss-cuss before a jewelry purchase).
2. "I'VE BEEN HERE FOR THREE WEEKS" is the magical phrase
As I mentioned before. After some polite "no thank yous", "I know where I'm going's", just drop the magic phrase above, and they will smile and walk away "Welcome Morocco."
3. I'd say that Morocco was one of the more challenging places that I've gone. Looking at my "Levels of Travel" from www.craigotravels.com, I'd say it was a 4 (on a scale of 0-5). There were good tourist services...sort of. But the language barrier (for me) and the street smarts required (see touts above) made it quite a challenge. A good challenge. A challenge I'm glad to have had. And one I wouldn't be afraid of taking on again.
4. Moroccan's are good sales people.
Yep, I bought more random souveniers on this trip than any other. A cool geode from a berber guy at the bus stop in the mountains. 80 Dirham. I offered 40. He said sure. 5 bucks. Cool geode. I don't need it. But it's cool. :) You too will buy lots of things. But if something's too expensive, just walk out the door. That's cool too.
5. Hammam's are fun.
So yeah, it's a little weird to us western folks to get a scrub in a Hammam by someone of the same sex. But it's actually fun. And is a normal occurance to Moroccans' (And Turkish folks too). So don't be afraid to try something way outside your comfort zone. It makes for a good story and a better understanding of how the world works.
6. Getting outside the comfort zone is good.
I did it on purpose this time around. I wanted some Culture shock and some comfort zone expanding adventure. I got it. It wasn't always a "good time", but it was always worth it. I think in life it's far to easy to get used to our routines and our comfort zone. The places we eat, the places we drive, the friends we hang out with. And though having a comfort zone can be good, as it gives us the ability to refresh and reenergize. I'm a firm believer that ultimately, the comfort zone is a negative thing. Life is to be experienced, and if you're afraid to go out and see it, encounter it, get a scrub down or get dirty on the streets, you're missing a huge portion of what it is to LIVE.
7. Coming back is always a bit of a downer...
Yep, I got some "back-to-LA-blues". But that's ok. I'm not feeling sorry for myself, but just acknowledging that I was living in the moment much more when I was on my trip. And that's good. Some people find that feeling of being alive by playing sports, or travel, or building something, or making love. These are all good ways. (Drugs, hurting people and blowing stuff up are bad ways.) But there will always be a come down after the ride. That's cool. It's normal. Let's you rev up for the next adventure.
8. Moroccan's are friendly.
Going back to the 2 faces. They really are a nice people. I missed a lot because I didn't speak French or Arabic. But I still encountered great generosity from many people.
9. Morocco is safe.
Yep, I know I had my "F#$K YOU" experience in Fez. And it was a bit scary. But statistically you are more likely to have a violent crime committed against you in a big city in Europe than in Morocco. Sure, keep your street smarts, keep your valuables hidden. Don't walk down dark alleys alone. (Sounds like any big city safety). But in the country...you are cool. Small town Morocco, is like small town America. Safe and friendly (but with Minarets on many corners calling to prayer).
10. Islam is cool.
Yep, I said it. Islam is cool. Just like Christianity is cool. Judaism is cool. Buddhism is cool. Etc etc etc. Islam does not teach people to kill to goto heaven. Islam is not about destroying the west. Yes, there are radical Muslim's who think this. Just as there are radical Christian's who think everyone not white is an abomination. Sometimes people are just stupid.
But Islam is cool. It's respectful. It is amazing to see hundreds of people flood into Mosques 5 times a day when the call echoes out. And pray. To allow themselves to be second to something bigger and more powerful than themselves. This isn't something to be judged, like "hey you're crazy to do that", it's something to be admired. Whether you believe in what they do is irrelevant. But I think it's important to realize that people all over the world are looking for the same sense of purpose and place in the universe, and in Morocco, this is how many find it. My point being, don't judge a religion and a people based upon all the negativity you see on TV. Go experience it first hand and you might learn something good. This doesn't just apply to Islam either...
11. Some women are covered in Morocco. Some are not. Very rarely did I see any cleavage or skin, but there were many tight jeans and stylish tops, and tons of adds for hair product. TONS. The more rural you get, the more conservative it gets. The more covered up. Though, it wasn't that common to see the style where you only see the slit for the eyes to peak out. Usually entire faces were exposed. And often, someone dressed like that was next to someone with their hair out, and they were talking. I wish I could have spoken to more Moroccan women to find out what they thought, how they felt, and all. But it's very uncommon for men and women to intermingle at length. And I don't speak French. I always find gender roles fascinating.
12. Morocco isn't all desert.
Go figure! From every picture you see, it's all desert and hot as balls.
Well, not in November, not to hot at all. In the 70's or 60's or colder during the day. (My Centegrade friends will have to translate that one themselves. :). And it's not all desert. Sure, everything south and east of the Atlas mountains is desert. Either rock, barren, or sand dunes. But the mountains have evergreen forests. And the north west, though some desert, has a lot of fertile plains. Who knew?
I just finished editing the footage I shot on 11-11-11, for the film the world day. It was the great waterfall hike in Azrou with Youness, Rachid and Mike. It's strange, it feels like a million years ago already. I look at the footage, and see the town and the falls and the people and it's almost like it went past in a blur. I think "was I even really there?" But the memories come back strong with photos and video. I guess that's the forever balance of capturing the memories, so that you can relive them vs. living them fully in the first place. As always, I probably took too darn many pictures. But hopefully I will get some up on the blog before too long.
And so it really ends.
There isn't much left to say.
Go to Morocco.
You'll push yourself, and it'll be worth every step.
This is Craig Ouellette,
last surviving member of the Nostromo
Signing off.
Showing posts with label Azrou. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Azrou. Show all posts
Thursday, December 8, 2011
Friday, November 11, 2011
A DETOUR WORTH TAKING
Hey Team,
Wow, I'm really typing a lot of updates for this trip! I guess it's because after dinner there is NOTHING else to do. Sure, I write my journal, or read, or have more than once had solo dance parties in my room. But other than sitting in cafe's drinking mint tea or coffee, nothing goes on. And that doesn't even go on very late. (Though now that I'm FINALLY feeling much more comfortable because I'm outside of the big cities, I think I'm going to join them some night to watch a football game (the cafe is packed right now)).
So Azrou...stands for "Awesome".
Not really, but it is. I got here last night and bumped into Youness and Rachid. Two guides who offered the hiking proposal (I think I mentioned in the last email). I thought about it and figured, "why am I in a hurry?", so I said "let's do it". And on top of that, I met a cool New Yorker named Mike, and he joined me.
So today we four went by grand taxi, and then small car to this mountain town of Zouiara Idris (?) in the Middle Atlas, and had a wonderful day. It's a tiny Berber town, with a charming home we could have stayed at. And above and behind the town was a volcanic rock face overgrown with green and sporting 6 waterfalls falling down it's multi-hundred foot face.
Awesome.
Youness and Rachid were great guides. (I'm so glad I met some in Morocco. They are legit. They knew there stuff. Were fun to talk with and very enthusiastic. And not pushy at all. They let us go at the pace we wanted. They rock... if you are coming to the middle Atlas of Morocco, let me know and I'll give you there emails. ).
We hiked, took pictures, explored small caves, drank super fresh spring water pouring out of the mountains, took to darn many photos of the mountains and animals and falls. Enjoyed a snack with our feet dangling over the edge of a cliff as the Mosque's prayers echoed over the valley.
A darn good day. Great conversation.
When we got back to the Berber village, we had an AMAZING Tagine (traditional Moroccan dish) of chicken and vegatables and honey and man it ruled. SOOOOO Good.
Being out in nature, fresh air, lots of friendly people around.
I'm so glad I ended up here, and it was just by chance. And sticking around an extra day wasn't part of the original plan (which was to leave today and head to the desert, which I will do tomorrow). But I trusted my instincts and finally am starting to feel more comfortable here. Which is good. Learning some Arabic from Rachid and Youness. Getting to hear about cool other countries Mike's traveled too. (he's been to 48, and most different from my 30 which is cool.). I even talked to the hotel desk guy for 30 minutes last night.
I tought Rachid "Awesome".
I'm just rambling.
Things are good.
Tomorrow it's off to the desert and camel's and camping in the dunes, so it will likely be a few days until the next update.
After all, I must find the Fremen and the Spice and avoid the Sandworms.
CraigO
Wow, I'm really typing a lot of updates for this trip! I guess it's because after dinner there is NOTHING else to do. Sure, I write my journal, or read, or have more than once had solo dance parties in my room. But other than sitting in cafe's drinking mint tea or coffee, nothing goes on. And that doesn't even go on very late. (Though now that I'm FINALLY feeling much more comfortable because I'm outside of the big cities, I think I'm going to join them some night to watch a football game (the cafe is packed right now)).
So Azrou...stands for "Awesome".
Not really, but it is. I got here last night and bumped into Youness and Rachid. Two guides who offered the hiking proposal (I think I mentioned in the last email). I thought about it and figured, "why am I in a hurry?", so I said "let's do it". And on top of that, I met a cool New Yorker named Mike, and he joined me.
So today we four went by grand taxi, and then small car to this mountain town of Zouiara Idris (?) in the Middle Atlas, and had a wonderful day. It's a tiny Berber town, with a charming home we could have stayed at. And above and behind the town was a volcanic rock face overgrown with green and sporting 6 waterfalls falling down it's multi-hundred foot face.
Awesome.
Youness and Rachid were great guides. (I'm so glad I met some in Morocco. They are legit. They knew there stuff. Were fun to talk with and very enthusiastic. And not pushy at all. They let us go at the pace we wanted. They rock... if you are coming to the middle Atlas of Morocco, let me know and I'll give you there emails. ).
We hiked, took pictures, explored small caves, drank super fresh spring water pouring out of the mountains, took to darn many photos of the mountains and animals and falls. Enjoyed a snack with our feet dangling over the edge of a cliff as the Mosque's prayers echoed over the valley.
A darn good day. Great conversation.
When we got back to the Berber village, we had an AMAZING Tagine (traditional Moroccan dish) of chicken and vegatables and honey and man it ruled. SOOOOO Good.
Being out in nature, fresh air, lots of friendly people around.
I'm so glad I ended up here, and it was just by chance. And sticking around an extra day wasn't part of the original plan (which was to leave today and head to the desert, which I will do tomorrow). But I trusted my instincts and finally am starting to feel more comfortable here. Which is good. Learning some Arabic from Rachid and Youness. Getting to hear about cool other countries Mike's traveled too. (he's been to 48, and most different from my 30 which is cool.). I even talked to the hotel desk guy for 30 minutes last night.
I tought Rachid "Awesome".
I'm just rambling.
Things are good.
Tomorrow it's off to the desert and camel's and camping in the dunes, so it will likely be a few days until the next update.
After all, I must find the Fremen and the Spice and avoid the Sandworms.
CraigO
Thursday, November 10, 2011
FED UP WITH FEZ aka "F#&K YOU! F#&K YOUR MOTHER!"
Ahhhh, the Fez Medina.
A wonderful, crazy, busy, friendly, alien, hostile, relentless, bustling, angering, joyful, tasty, stinky maze of madness and humanity. Fez is the largest intact ancient city of it's kind in the world. And it is ENORMOUS. 150,000 people live in the twisty turny maze of the medina. World class leather, carpets and pottery are made. A wall that's 30 feet tall and 30 plus kilometers long surrounds it (and that's just part of it). It's been there for 1400 years or something. The "new" part is 700 years old. It is INSANE.
And I was there on the goat holiday (it's still going. Reports vary from 3 days to 10 days. Guess it depends on home much money you have or how religious you are, how many days you take off). It really is AMAZING. So cool to walk around. To see, hear, smell. Awesome.
But one thing that doesn't stop for any holiday is the Touts.
Now, if you've been to other countries, you konw the touts. The Men (it's always men), ranging from 12-35 (or older sometimes) who come up to you and welcome you, tell you they love your country and then insist on:
1. guiding you someplace you don't want to go
2. guiding you someplace you know how to get to
3. taking you to the a. tanneries. b. pottery lane c. carpet shop d. berber pharmacy
4. say your hotel is closed, but they know one who isn't
5. take you to a restraunt, shop, taxi stand, cafe.
And they don't take no for an answer (well, the annoying ones don't).
So you get this head down mentality that keeps you from engaging with the NOT annoying people who live and work in the Medina. But they find you anyway. And here are a few tales of Fez.
TALE 1: "YOU GOT A PROBLEM WITH ME?"
So I'm out touring fez for my second day there. Enjoying sites. I head out to Barj Nord, a big fortress outside the medina with views of the sprawl. And meet some Polish tourists. Chat a bit. Generally I'm not bothered. I goto an old tomb on a hill with a great view again. There's a berber man there, he welcomes me, offers to show me his carpet and his hats. He's nice, it's pleasant. I don't buy a rug, but buy a nice knit hat for 5 bucks. He warns me of pickpockets.
I get back to the medina just fine. Enjoy lunch and head back to my guesthouse (DAR FATIMA, I recommend it. They are super nice and fun). I walk in and, as manifesting works... there are 2 American girls sitting in the living space! Yahoo!!!!!! YA-FUCKING-HOOOOO!!!!! :)
Well we chat, they just came from the desert. I ask of the tour, there's was WAY cheaper than what I was about to book. Hmmmm... They were led to Dar Fatima by a guy named Mohammed (not the same Mo as I met before...oh wait, I havne't told that story yet. Well, in another email). So me and the girls decide to go explore and maybe grab some food in a bit (it's like 5:30, so it's dark). Well there was some confusion with Mohammed, because he was going to take them around, but they'd said they have no money, he seemed okay with that. Wanted to "practice his english. He's a student" (That is clue number one my friends...)
So if I'm going to go with them, he will charge me 150 Dhm (that's almost 20 bucks) to join them, but they are free. Well...that's stupid. I know where I'm going and just like to explore if I don't. But I'm going out at the same time, so we walk down all the steps from Fatima and go outside.
As soon as the door closes, Mohammed leans forward agressively toward me and says "You got a problem with me?"
I have NO IDEA what he's talking about. "YOU GOT A PROBLEM WITH ME?"
I have a habit when shocked of smiling or sort of laughing...well, you don't do this to a Moroccan man.
Me "Are we really going to have this conversation? What are you talking about?"
Him "You have a problem with me"
Me "Really, you wait till the door closes and now you say this?"
(I'm thinking...I have no idea what to do right now and no idea what is going on...)
Well, we're on a little alley in the medina of Fez. A couple folks walking by stop. The girls have NO IDEA what is provoking this. And honestly, I'm so annoyed by all the fucking touts I kinda want to have him swing at me so I can drop kick his ass with some Tae-Kwon-Do!
But I'm also not a fighter (I'm a lover, ha ha ha), and know that getting in a fight here and now would be REALLY FUCKING DUMB.
So thankfully Sonja steps in. And he tries to lead her and Leah off (but I'm thinking "this isn't safe at all"). So we end up about 20 feet further away and he thinks I'm following them, which I am. So he wants money. He says "You just want to fuck them, that's all".
Me "I don't even KNOW them! I just want to find out about their desert trip and where they went!"
Sonja tries to figure out what's up. Explain that they were just in the desert, and went trekking etc etc. Another guy standing there, and his girlfriend motion me over and we start talking. He doesn't know what's up, and I feel like he said something about me taking money from Mohammed. (I mean, I KNOW Mohammed is leading them to shops, but if they want to go, they want to go, that's fine).
Sonja comes over and says, "It's okay, he understands". And then he lights up a cigarette, as Sonja and Leah rush through what they did and the costs. It was rediculous. Then he says "How much you pay?"
I say "The guy says it'll be 320 Euro."
Mohammed "No no no. You book with me and I can do it all for 200 Euro. I was just in desert. I'm a guide".
REALLY? You threaten me, then 5 minutes later want my business. Come on!!!
Anyway, no more tensions there. End up walking with them a bit. I knew they would get harrassed, but I had to go a different direction, or there would be more problems. They were fine. Said Mohammed claimed I was "in the mafia". Yep. I'll put out a contract on you, don't you know it!
TALE 2: "FUCK YOU!!! FUCK YOUR MOTHER!!!!"
Well, the night just keeps getting better. I walk all the way to the main gate, where I knew I could get some good food. I ate alone, because my new friends were being annoyed by the "guide".
On my way back, it was maybe 8:45pm. Getting late in Morocco time. Shops all closing up. I had to walk the main "road" (it's maybe 8 feet wide) to a side one and then I would head through a passage to my hotel. Problem is...I'd never walked BACK that way before. So before leaving the cafe I looked on the map, saw some landmarks I could memorize and use, and head out...
I've got a bottle of water, I'm walking focused. I don't really answer folks when they ask the ever coming first question "Where you from? Welcome Morocco. Your second home Brother."
But then a (maybe drunk, maybe high, maybe just annoying) guy comes up.
"You want to goto Tanneries? To pottery? Buy good stuff?"
"No thank you."
"I take you, Tanneries You come."
"No, I'm good."
"It's right up here, you come, Good deal"
"No"
I turn around (because I KNOW I've gone too fucking far down the street, and more guys are sort of appearing).
So I walk past another couple
"Where you from?"
"LEAVE ME ALONE."
I never looked back
"FUCK YOU! FUCKER! FUCK YOUR MOTHER! FUCKING ASS HOLE!"Etc etc etc
Now I KNOW I'm in a bad place. I do not have a clear idea where to go. I know even if I PICK the right side alley, it is not close. Maybe 300 meters of quiet alley and dark passage. Then I have to open the fricking door, which isn't easy to open.
This is not cool.
I can't leave it alone, so I say (not really very loud) "Glad you practiced your English" as I'm walking away
Other people on the street (thank god they were there) started to look at what was going on. I pass the bank (and know that the alley is right next to it from the map). So I do a hard Left, glance quickly to see if I'm being followed...I'm not.
But I just walked into that alley. And NO ONE is around.
I quickly debate turning back onto mainstreet, going up to gate and hanging at cafe. But really, if they sit and wait, I'm fucked.
So I go for it.
I don't run, I walk, senses tuned to sounds of footsteps behind.
I slide under the passage, out onto Fatima's alley. And up to the door. Look back...
no puruit.
Open door. Slide inside.
Fuck me.
SO...
I'm a bit frazzled. Fatima's daughter wants to know if I'll be doing the 320 euro tour so we can call the guide for the pick up tomorrow. I say "I need to calm down".
I chat with Leah and Sonja, we tell stories of Mohammed and the "Fuck your mother" guys. And I think "I'm not going on this tour. It's way too expensive and I'm in no hurry...but I'm getting out of Fez".
So I have.
We toured the Jewish quarter and saw a few quick sites this morning. Had some great conversation. Ran into this Aussie couple I chatted with yesterday and then went our separate ways. Emails swapped. New friends.
I rode a grand taxi (a full size Mercedes, painted a certain color depending on the city, that goes between towns. They ALWAYS put 6 people plus the driver in them.) So it was me and another guy in the front seat. Cool...I had my arm out the window as we headed into the LUSH GREEN MOUNTAINS. Um, this is Morocco? Yep, cedar trees and other evergreens. Very pretty. Past the french inspired town of Ifrane. Very cool, kinda wish I'd stayed there. But got to Azrou.
Pretty mountains. Very nice people. The hotel guy is fun, we chat (in rough English) about travel, america, Los Angeles, his trips etc. I met another traveler at the restraunt (though I was by far the ONLY one here for awhile). His name is Mike. He got fed up with Fez and headed out today too. We'll go hiking tomorrow.
No Touts, though one guide came up to me with his friend, they had a book of testimonials and a photo book a Dutch couple had made for him of their trek. He told me what we could do, said "Just a proposal. No pressure. If you want to book, let me know later". And they left me be. And I climbed on this cool huge rock pile that's like 100 feet of volcanic awesome that overlooks the town, the mosque, the full moon and the fading sunlight.
Sweet.
Craigo
A wonderful, crazy, busy, friendly, alien, hostile, relentless, bustling, angering, joyful, tasty, stinky maze of madness and humanity. Fez is the largest intact ancient city of it's kind in the world. And it is ENORMOUS. 150,000 people live in the twisty turny maze of the medina. World class leather, carpets and pottery are made. A wall that's 30 feet tall and 30 plus kilometers long surrounds it (and that's just part of it). It's been there for 1400 years or something. The "new" part is 700 years old. It is INSANE.
And I was there on the goat holiday (it's still going. Reports vary from 3 days to 10 days. Guess it depends on home much money you have or how religious you are, how many days you take off). It really is AMAZING. So cool to walk around. To see, hear, smell. Awesome.
But one thing that doesn't stop for any holiday is the Touts.
Now, if you've been to other countries, you konw the touts. The Men (it's always men), ranging from 12-35 (or older sometimes) who come up to you and welcome you, tell you they love your country and then insist on:
1. guiding you someplace you don't want to go
2. guiding you someplace you know how to get to
3. taking you to the a. tanneries. b. pottery lane c. carpet shop d. berber pharmacy
4. say your hotel is closed, but they know one who isn't
5. take you to a restraunt, shop, taxi stand, cafe.
And they don't take no for an answer (well, the annoying ones don't).
So you get this head down mentality that keeps you from engaging with the NOT annoying people who live and work in the Medina. But they find you anyway. And here are a few tales of Fez.
TALE 1: "YOU GOT A PROBLEM WITH ME?"
So I'm out touring fez for my second day there. Enjoying sites. I head out to Barj Nord, a big fortress outside the medina with views of the sprawl. And meet some Polish tourists. Chat a bit. Generally I'm not bothered. I goto an old tomb on a hill with a great view again. There's a berber man there, he welcomes me, offers to show me his carpet and his hats. He's nice, it's pleasant. I don't buy a rug, but buy a nice knit hat for 5 bucks. He warns me of pickpockets.
I get back to the medina just fine. Enjoy lunch and head back to my guesthouse (DAR FATIMA, I recommend it. They are super nice and fun). I walk in and, as manifesting works... there are 2 American girls sitting in the living space! Yahoo!!!!!! YA-FUCKING-HOOOOO!!!!! :)
Well we chat, they just came from the desert. I ask of the tour, there's was WAY cheaper than what I was about to book. Hmmmm... They were led to Dar Fatima by a guy named Mohammed (not the same Mo as I met before...oh wait, I havne't told that story yet. Well, in another email). So me and the girls decide to go explore and maybe grab some food in a bit (it's like 5:30, so it's dark). Well there was some confusion with Mohammed, because he was going to take them around, but they'd said they have no money, he seemed okay with that. Wanted to "practice his english. He's a student" (That is clue number one my friends...)
So if I'm going to go with them, he will charge me 150 Dhm (that's almost 20 bucks) to join them, but they are free. Well...that's stupid. I know where I'm going and just like to explore if I don't. But I'm going out at the same time, so we walk down all the steps from Fatima and go outside.
As soon as the door closes, Mohammed leans forward agressively toward me and says "You got a problem with me?"
I have NO IDEA what he's talking about. "YOU GOT A PROBLEM WITH ME?"
I have a habit when shocked of smiling or sort of laughing...well, you don't do this to a Moroccan man.
Me "Are we really going to have this conversation? What are you talking about?"
Him "You have a problem with me"
Me "Really, you wait till the door closes and now you say this?"
(I'm thinking...I have no idea what to do right now and no idea what is going on...)
Well, we're on a little alley in the medina of Fez. A couple folks walking by stop. The girls have NO IDEA what is provoking this. And honestly, I'm so annoyed by all the fucking touts I kinda want to have him swing at me so I can drop kick his ass with some Tae-Kwon-Do!
But I'm also not a fighter (I'm a lover, ha ha ha), and know that getting in a fight here and now would be REALLY FUCKING DUMB.
So thankfully Sonja steps in. And he tries to lead her and Leah off (but I'm thinking "this isn't safe at all"). So we end up about 20 feet further away and he thinks I'm following them, which I am. So he wants money. He says "You just want to fuck them, that's all".
Me "I don't even KNOW them! I just want to find out about their desert trip and where they went!"
Sonja tries to figure out what's up. Explain that they were just in the desert, and went trekking etc etc. Another guy standing there, and his girlfriend motion me over and we start talking. He doesn't know what's up, and I feel like he said something about me taking money from Mohammed. (I mean, I KNOW Mohammed is leading them to shops, but if they want to go, they want to go, that's fine).
Sonja comes over and says, "It's okay, he understands". And then he lights up a cigarette, as Sonja and Leah rush through what they did and the costs. It was rediculous. Then he says "How much you pay?"
I say "The guy says it'll be 320 Euro."
Mohammed "No no no. You book with me and I can do it all for 200 Euro. I was just in desert. I'm a guide".
REALLY? You threaten me, then 5 minutes later want my business. Come on!!!
Anyway, no more tensions there. End up walking with them a bit. I knew they would get harrassed, but I had to go a different direction, or there would be more problems. They were fine. Said Mohammed claimed I was "in the mafia". Yep. I'll put out a contract on you, don't you know it!
TALE 2: "FUCK YOU!!! FUCK YOUR MOTHER!!!!"
Well, the night just keeps getting better. I walk all the way to the main gate, where I knew I could get some good food. I ate alone, because my new friends were being annoyed by the "guide".
On my way back, it was maybe 8:45pm. Getting late in Morocco time. Shops all closing up. I had to walk the main "road" (it's maybe 8 feet wide) to a side one and then I would head through a passage to my hotel. Problem is...I'd never walked BACK that way before. So before leaving the cafe I looked on the map, saw some landmarks I could memorize and use, and head out...
I've got a bottle of water, I'm walking focused. I don't really answer folks when they ask the ever coming first question "Where you from? Welcome Morocco. Your second home Brother."
But then a (maybe drunk, maybe high, maybe just annoying) guy comes up.
"You want to goto Tanneries? To pottery? Buy good stuff?"
"No thank you."
"I take you, Tanneries You come."
"No, I'm good."
"It's right up here, you come, Good deal"
"No"
I turn around (because I KNOW I've gone too fucking far down the street, and more guys are sort of appearing).
So I walk past another couple
"Where you from?"
"LEAVE ME ALONE."
I never looked back
"FUCK YOU! FUCKER! FUCK YOUR MOTHER! FUCKING ASS HOLE!"Etc etc etc
Now I KNOW I'm in a bad place. I do not have a clear idea where to go. I know even if I PICK the right side alley, it is not close. Maybe 300 meters of quiet alley and dark passage. Then I have to open the fricking door, which isn't easy to open.
This is not cool.
I can't leave it alone, so I say (not really very loud) "Glad you practiced your English" as I'm walking away
Other people on the street (thank god they were there) started to look at what was going on. I pass the bank (and know that the alley is right next to it from the map). So I do a hard Left, glance quickly to see if I'm being followed...I'm not.
But I just walked into that alley. And NO ONE is around.
I quickly debate turning back onto mainstreet, going up to gate and hanging at cafe. But really, if they sit and wait, I'm fucked.
So I go for it.
I don't run, I walk, senses tuned to sounds of footsteps behind.
I slide under the passage, out onto Fatima's alley. And up to the door. Look back...
no puruit.
Open door. Slide inside.
Fuck me.
SO...
I'm a bit frazzled. Fatima's daughter wants to know if I'll be doing the 320 euro tour so we can call the guide for the pick up tomorrow. I say "I need to calm down".
I chat with Leah and Sonja, we tell stories of Mohammed and the "Fuck your mother" guys. And I think "I'm not going on this tour. It's way too expensive and I'm in no hurry...but I'm getting out of Fez".
So I have.
We toured the Jewish quarter and saw a few quick sites this morning. Had some great conversation. Ran into this Aussie couple I chatted with yesterday and then went our separate ways. Emails swapped. New friends.
I rode a grand taxi (a full size Mercedes, painted a certain color depending on the city, that goes between towns. They ALWAYS put 6 people plus the driver in them.) So it was me and another guy in the front seat. Cool...I had my arm out the window as we headed into the LUSH GREEN MOUNTAINS. Um, this is Morocco? Yep, cedar trees and other evergreens. Very pretty. Past the french inspired town of Ifrane. Very cool, kinda wish I'd stayed there. But got to Azrou.
Pretty mountains. Very nice people. The hotel guy is fun, we chat (in rough English) about travel, america, Los Angeles, his trips etc. I met another traveler at the restraunt (though I was by far the ONLY one here for awhile). His name is Mike. He got fed up with Fez and headed out today too. We'll go hiking tomorrow.
No Touts, though one guide came up to me with his friend, they had a book of testimonials and a photo book a Dutch couple had made for him of their trek. He told me what we could do, said "Just a proposal. No pressure. If you want to book, let me know later". And they left me be. And I climbed on this cool huge rock pile that's like 100 feet of volcanic awesome that overlooks the town, the mosque, the full moon and the fading sunlight.
Sweet.
Craigo
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