...but with a hot wet rubdown by a half naked Moroccan man.
So I'm laying face down, ass up (but skivvies on), on a marble floor. The room is hot, steamy, and there are three or four other men in skivvies getting hot rubdowns by other half naked Moroccan men. They scrub with hot water, some sort of soap and a rough brush that scrapes off the dead skin from my body. And boy, who knew there was so much of it! There's also something called a "massage", but it's more like a twisted, half yoga-half chiropractic twisting session. It did feel good, but there were times, as I was being lifted against the half naked man's legs, that I thought "Oh my god this hurts, I hope I don't pop out of place!". I didn't.
The main rubdown room was in the back. It has no lights other than small holes in the domed ceiling. There's another room you walk through, that has some sort of open shower stalls, though no one was in these. The front room of the bathing area is cooler, and is the rinse room. And through a door, and a VERY low ducking under a ceiling, you enter the entry way, which is a 50 foot tall starred dome, with star shaped vents that have sun streaming in.
This is a Hammam. A traditional Moroccan (and Turkish too, I think) bath house. The one I was in is hundreds of years old, and is the place you go to really get clean. It was probably more important back when there weren't showers and plumbing, but it is still an important part of Moroccan life. Naturally, the men and women have completely separate hours. It would be a bit impure (And really very counter to the whole way Muslim's do things here) to be getting a hot wet rubdown from a man while topless women were getting hot wet rubdowns from other topless women right next to you.
But that's how it works for the gals too. I met two Belgian gals on my birthday, and they described their experience, and it was remarkably similar to mine. Though they didn't mention anything about the strong smell of cigarettes on the attendants breath. Maybe they didn't have it.
It was really fun, strangely enough. And I haven't felt that clean in a long time. He cleaned everything but my crotch and butt crack. (But he got the cheeks!).
So for my Birthday, on Monday, I went down to the Djeema El Fna, the 1000 year old square at the center of Marrakech. I had some street food, enjoyed the jovial, fun, playful way the vendors try to get your attention to eat at their stalls. They mostly have he same menu (minus the one with the goat heads), but the food did vary in tastiness. I never could find my buddy Mike. He stayed at a different hotel, we set up time to meet and somehow missed each other. A strange way to end 10 days of good travel together. Never did get to say thanks or goodbye. (But fortunately we swapped emails, so we will be able to there, and get pics too).
So I hung out with other travelers. The aforementioned Belgian gals. And an Aussie who looked a lot like Jesus. And a fun Italian guy with a great laugh, who was only there for the dinner parts. We chatted, we swapped stories, we laughed of the Moroccan sales method, and I told them it was my birthday and I was determined to find a beer in Morocco.
Judging from stories of the Australian couple in Fez who, on a search for alcohol, were sent down back alleys to an unmarked door. They were let inside and the men (all men) sitting inside drinking looked up guiltily at the door like teenagers caught by their parents. Around the corner in the next room was the "bar", where a man showed them a bottle of wine while looking around to make sure no one was watching. He wouldn't let them hold it either. And when they bought it, they were ushered out a side door into another alley.
OR, the two Belgian gals, who were led to an equally dark alley and door, and when they entered... it was all women! Who knew, women in Morocco drink. So they ordered beers (Flag Special) and sat down. Then realized that these women were sure dressed provocatively. And there were indeed a couple of men in the room, and...oh, Hookers! A whole room full. They had no problems, were not assumed to be hookers, enjoyed their drinks and left.
So, I figured, this i going to be one hell of an awesome quest down the back alleys of Morocco. Leading to adventures, strange tales and odd happenings. So in French, Florine (tall belgian girl) asks the waiter "where can we find some beer?". He says "At the end of that street there is a hotel called Tazi. They have the only bar in the Medina."
Well that was easy!
So we went. Had three beers. Talked lots more. I had a Moroccan man say "Fuzzy wuzzy was a bear, Fuzzy wuzzy had no hair, Fuzzy Wuzzy wasn't fuzzy was he?". And he wanted to know what it meant...um, ok.
Oddly in a place where drinking is so hidden (though technically not illegal like it is in Kuwait), they sold us our last beers as they were closing and said we could drink it on the street. So we walked along, drinking beers to the Djeema El-Fna. We did slip them into pockets when we got within sight of the big Mosque though. We know enough to not be THOSE tourists who essentially give the finger to the mosque. Not going to that, that's not cool.
And when I headed back to my hostel, I fully expected to get offered hash and pot about 10 times, since I had been offered it tons of times in Marrakech. But I wasn't offered it once. Without the scooter traffic and shops and noise, it's almost like I walked back in time hundreds of years as I cruised through the alleys.
So that was my Bday.
The next day was a rainy, walking tour of some palaces. Some shopping. Some more eating in the square, with Monkeys climbing all over me (for a tip of course).
The final day was the Hammam rubdown, and a final tour of Marrakech, where I got way off the tourist track. And the touts seemed to pick up to take me to the tanneries and other places, but I politely declined "No thank you, I'm just exploring",
and they would be insistant "Just a quick look, no pressure."
And I'd say, what turned out to the be magic words: "I've been here for three weeks. I'm good."
They would smile the knowing Oh-yes-you've-seen-all-our-techniques smile, and say "Welcome Morocco. Have fun."
So THERE YOU HAVE IT: If you need to get the touts to go away, politely decline, then say (whether you have or not), that you've been here for 3 weeks, and they will leave you alone willingly. (Now don't ALWAYS do this, as you'll miss out on some fun adventures (see the jewelry buying in Meknes for instance), but if you're not in the mood, you now have your magic spell to use.
The walking, wandering led to a cool photography museum, with pics from 1870-1950 Morocco. And strangely, a lot of things looked almost exactly the same. And many things were different. It was a great way to end the trip, with this sort of time machine into the world of Morocco before. Some really cool images. Back in the day, the female coverings (which I'm blanking on the name right now) were all white. Completely white. Like ghosts. Now they tend to be black if it's a total covering, except the eyes. Though if it's not that complete, the colors vary wildly and the clothes are very beautiful.
And I had a cobra put around my neck. And other snakes too. And took pics with the snake charmers on the square. It was fun to do, and of course required a tip. But it was "Good price, Moroccan price".:) (After I talked them down from 200 MAD (That's $25USD, ) to 50 MAD (Tha'ts about $6...still a bit pricey, but what the hell. When am I going to have a cobra on my neck...)
I asked "Isn't it poisonous?",
They said "Yes, yes, very".
I said "How do you make it not bite? Has it been devenomized?"
Them "Yes, very poisonous."
Hmmmm.....
I walked through the square one last time, and hopped in a cab at 4:15pm Moroccan time. Took a train for 3 1/2 hours. Another train for 40 minutes. Sat at the airport for 4 hours. Flew for 3 1/2 hours to Frankfurt. Leaving Morocco at night, so I never got to see Morocco from the air. Sit in Frankfurt for 4 1/2 hours. Sit on the plane 45 minutes. Fly 8 hours to Washington (Go USA! I can drink from the water fountains, wooooooooo!), wait 3 hours, take final plane for 2 hours to St. Louis where I am now for Thanksgiving with my relatives. Always a good place to be...and it only took 32 hours to get here. :)
And so that's the scoop. That's the journey. That's the adventure...
But wait, we're not done. There's one more story to be told...
CraigO
Showing posts with label medina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label medina. Show all posts
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Thursday, November 10, 2011
FED UP WITH FEZ aka "F#&K YOU! F#&K YOUR MOTHER!"
Ahhhh, the Fez Medina.
A wonderful, crazy, busy, friendly, alien, hostile, relentless, bustling, angering, joyful, tasty, stinky maze of madness and humanity. Fez is the largest intact ancient city of it's kind in the world. And it is ENORMOUS. 150,000 people live in the twisty turny maze of the medina. World class leather, carpets and pottery are made. A wall that's 30 feet tall and 30 plus kilometers long surrounds it (and that's just part of it). It's been there for 1400 years or something. The "new" part is 700 years old. It is INSANE.
And I was there on the goat holiday (it's still going. Reports vary from 3 days to 10 days. Guess it depends on home much money you have or how religious you are, how many days you take off). It really is AMAZING. So cool to walk around. To see, hear, smell. Awesome.
But one thing that doesn't stop for any holiday is the Touts.
Now, if you've been to other countries, you konw the touts. The Men (it's always men), ranging from 12-35 (or older sometimes) who come up to you and welcome you, tell you they love your country and then insist on:
1. guiding you someplace you don't want to go
2. guiding you someplace you know how to get to
3. taking you to the a. tanneries. b. pottery lane c. carpet shop d. berber pharmacy
4. say your hotel is closed, but they know one who isn't
5. take you to a restraunt, shop, taxi stand, cafe.
And they don't take no for an answer (well, the annoying ones don't).
So you get this head down mentality that keeps you from engaging with the NOT annoying people who live and work in the Medina. But they find you anyway. And here are a few tales of Fez.
TALE 1: "YOU GOT A PROBLEM WITH ME?"
So I'm out touring fez for my second day there. Enjoying sites. I head out to Barj Nord, a big fortress outside the medina with views of the sprawl. And meet some Polish tourists. Chat a bit. Generally I'm not bothered. I goto an old tomb on a hill with a great view again. There's a berber man there, he welcomes me, offers to show me his carpet and his hats. He's nice, it's pleasant. I don't buy a rug, but buy a nice knit hat for 5 bucks. He warns me of pickpockets.
I get back to the medina just fine. Enjoy lunch and head back to my guesthouse (DAR FATIMA, I recommend it. They are super nice and fun). I walk in and, as manifesting works... there are 2 American girls sitting in the living space! Yahoo!!!!!! YA-FUCKING-HOOOOO!!!!! :)
Well we chat, they just came from the desert. I ask of the tour, there's was WAY cheaper than what I was about to book. Hmmmm... They were led to Dar Fatima by a guy named Mohammed (not the same Mo as I met before...oh wait, I havne't told that story yet. Well, in another email). So me and the girls decide to go explore and maybe grab some food in a bit (it's like 5:30, so it's dark). Well there was some confusion with Mohammed, because he was going to take them around, but they'd said they have no money, he seemed okay with that. Wanted to "practice his english. He's a student" (That is clue number one my friends...)
So if I'm going to go with them, he will charge me 150 Dhm (that's almost 20 bucks) to join them, but they are free. Well...that's stupid. I know where I'm going and just like to explore if I don't. But I'm going out at the same time, so we walk down all the steps from Fatima and go outside.
As soon as the door closes, Mohammed leans forward agressively toward me and says "You got a problem with me?"
I have NO IDEA what he's talking about. "YOU GOT A PROBLEM WITH ME?"
I have a habit when shocked of smiling or sort of laughing...well, you don't do this to a Moroccan man.
Me "Are we really going to have this conversation? What are you talking about?"
Him "You have a problem with me"
Me "Really, you wait till the door closes and now you say this?"
(I'm thinking...I have no idea what to do right now and no idea what is going on...)
Well, we're on a little alley in the medina of Fez. A couple folks walking by stop. The girls have NO IDEA what is provoking this. And honestly, I'm so annoyed by all the fucking touts I kinda want to have him swing at me so I can drop kick his ass with some Tae-Kwon-Do!
But I'm also not a fighter (I'm a lover, ha ha ha), and know that getting in a fight here and now would be REALLY FUCKING DUMB.
So thankfully Sonja steps in. And he tries to lead her and Leah off (but I'm thinking "this isn't safe at all"). So we end up about 20 feet further away and he thinks I'm following them, which I am. So he wants money. He says "You just want to fuck them, that's all".
Me "I don't even KNOW them! I just want to find out about their desert trip and where they went!"
Sonja tries to figure out what's up. Explain that they were just in the desert, and went trekking etc etc. Another guy standing there, and his girlfriend motion me over and we start talking. He doesn't know what's up, and I feel like he said something about me taking money from Mohammed. (I mean, I KNOW Mohammed is leading them to shops, but if they want to go, they want to go, that's fine).
Sonja comes over and says, "It's okay, he understands". And then he lights up a cigarette, as Sonja and Leah rush through what they did and the costs. It was rediculous. Then he says "How much you pay?"
I say "The guy says it'll be 320 Euro."
Mohammed "No no no. You book with me and I can do it all for 200 Euro. I was just in desert. I'm a guide".
REALLY? You threaten me, then 5 minutes later want my business. Come on!!!
Anyway, no more tensions there. End up walking with them a bit. I knew they would get harrassed, but I had to go a different direction, or there would be more problems. They were fine. Said Mohammed claimed I was "in the mafia". Yep. I'll put out a contract on you, don't you know it!
TALE 2: "FUCK YOU!!! FUCK YOUR MOTHER!!!!"
Well, the night just keeps getting better. I walk all the way to the main gate, where I knew I could get some good food. I ate alone, because my new friends were being annoyed by the "guide".
On my way back, it was maybe 8:45pm. Getting late in Morocco time. Shops all closing up. I had to walk the main "road" (it's maybe 8 feet wide) to a side one and then I would head through a passage to my hotel. Problem is...I'd never walked BACK that way before. So before leaving the cafe I looked on the map, saw some landmarks I could memorize and use, and head out...
I've got a bottle of water, I'm walking focused. I don't really answer folks when they ask the ever coming first question "Where you from? Welcome Morocco. Your second home Brother."
But then a (maybe drunk, maybe high, maybe just annoying) guy comes up.
"You want to goto Tanneries? To pottery? Buy good stuff?"
"No thank you."
"I take you, Tanneries You come."
"No, I'm good."
"It's right up here, you come, Good deal"
"No"
I turn around (because I KNOW I've gone too fucking far down the street, and more guys are sort of appearing).
So I walk past another couple
"Where you from?"
"LEAVE ME ALONE."
I never looked back
"FUCK YOU! FUCKER! FUCK YOUR MOTHER! FUCKING ASS HOLE!"Etc etc etc
Now I KNOW I'm in a bad place. I do not have a clear idea where to go. I know even if I PICK the right side alley, it is not close. Maybe 300 meters of quiet alley and dark passage. Then I have to open the fricking door, which isn't easy to open.
This is not cool.
I can't leave it alone, so I say (not really very loud) "Glad you practiced your English" as I'm walking away
Other people on the street (thank god they were there) started to look at what was going on. I pass the bank (and know that the alley is right next to it from the map). So I do a hard Left, glance quickly to see if I'm being followed...I'm not.
But I just walked into that alley. And NO ONE is around.
I quickly debate turning back onto mainstreet, going up to gate and hanging at cafe. But really, if they sit and wait, I'm fucked.
So I go for it.
I don't run, I walk, senses tuned to sounds of footsteps behind.
I slide under the passage, out onto Fatima's alley. And up to the door. Look back...
no puruit.
Open door. Slide inside.
Fuck me.
SO...
I'm a bit frazzled. Fatima's daughter wants to know if I'll be doing the 320 euro tour so we can call the guide for the pick up tomorrow. I say "I need to calm down".
I chat with Leah and Sonja, we tell stories of Mohammed and the "Fuck your mother" guys. And I think "I'm not going on this tour. It's way too expensive and I'm in no hurry...but I'm getting out of Fez".
So I have.
We toured the Jewish quarter and saw a few quick sites this morning. Had some great conversation. Ran into this Aussie couple I chatted with yesterday and then went our separate ways. Emails swapped. New friends.
I rode a grand taxi (a full size Mercedes, painted a certain color depending on the city, that goes between towns. They ALWAYS put 6 people plus the driver in them.) So it was me and another guy in the front seat. Cool...I had my arm out the window as we headed into the LUSH GREEN MOUNTAINS. Um, this is Morocco? Yep, cedar trees and other evergreens. Very pretty. Past the french inspired town of Ifrane. Very cool, kinda wish I'd stayed there. But got to Azrou.
Pretty mountains. Very nice people. The hotel guy is fun, we chat (in rough English) about travel, america, Los Angeles, his trips etc. I met another traveler at the restraunt (though I was by far the ONLY one here for awhile). His name is Mike. He got fed up with Fez and headed out today too. We'll go hiking tomorrow.
No Touts, though one guide came up to me with his friend, they had a book of testimonials and a photo book a Dutch couple had made for him of their trek. He told me what we could do, said "Just a proposal. No pressure. If you want to book, let me know later". And they left me be. And I climbed on this cool huge rock pile that's like 100 feet of volcanic awesome that overlooks the town, the mosque, the full moon and the fading sunlight.
Sweet.
Craigo
A wonderful, crazy, busy, friendly, alien, hostile, relentless, bustling, angering, joyful, tasty, stinky maze of madness and humanity. Fez is the largest intact ancient city of it's kind in the world. And it is ENORMOUS. 150,000 people live in the twisty turny maze of the medina. World class leather, carpets and pottery are made. A wall that's 30 feet tall and 30 plus kilometers long surrounds it (and that's just part of it). It's been there for 1400 years or something. The "new" part is 700 years old. It is INSANE.
And I was there on the goat holiday (it's still going. Reports vary from 3 days to 10 days. Guess it depends on home much money you have or how religious you are, how many days you take off). It really is AMAZING. So cool to walk around. To see, hear, smell. Awesome.
But one thing that doesn't stop for any holiday is the Touts.
Now, if you've been to other countries, you konw the touts. The Men (it's always men), ranging from 12-35 (or older sometimes) who come up to you and welcome you, tell you they love your country and then insist on:
1. guiding you someplace you don't want to go
2. guiding you someplace you know how to get to
3. taking you to the a. tanneries. b. pottery lane c. carpet shop d. berber pharmacy
4. say your hotel is closed, but they know one who isn't
5. take you to a restraunt, shop, taxi stand, cafe.
And they don't take no for an answer (well, the annoying ones don't).
So you get this head down mentality that keeps you from engaging with the NOT annoying people who live and work in the Medina. But they find you anyway. And here are a few tales of Fez.
TALE 1: "YOU GOT A PROBLEM WITH ME?"
So I'm out touring fez for my second day there. Enjoying sites. I head out to Barj Nord, a big fortress outside the medina with views of the sprawl. And meet some Polish tourists. Chat a bit. Generally I'm not bothered. I goto an old tomb on a hill with a great view again. There's a berber man there, he welcomes me, offers to show me his carpet and his hats. He's nice, it's pleasant. I don't buy a rug, but buy a nice knit hat for 5 bucks. He warns me of pickpockets.
I get back to the medina just fine. Enjoy lunch and head back to my guesthouse (DAR FATIMA, I recommend it. They are super nice and fun). I walk in and, as manifesting works... there are 2 American girls sitting in the living space! Yahoo!!!!!! YA-FUCKING-HOOOOO!!!!! :)
Well we chat, they just came from the desert. I ask of the tour, there's was WAY cheaper than what I was about to book. Hmmmm... They were led to Dar Fatima by a guy named Mohammed (not the same Mo as I met before...oh wait, I havne't told that story yet. Well, in another email). So me and the girls decide to go explore and maybe grab some food in a bit (it's like 5:30, so it's dark). Well there was some confusion with Mohammed, because he was going to take them around, but they'd said they have no money, he seemed okay with that. Wanted to "practice his english. He's a student" (That is clue number one my friends...)
So if I'm going to go with them, he will charge me 150 Dhm (that's almost 20 bucks) to join them, but they are free. Well...that's stupid. I know where I'm going and just like to explore if I don't. But I'm going out at the same time, so we walk down all the steps from Fatima and go outside.
As soon as the door closes, Mohammed leans forward agressively toward me and says "You got a problem with me?"
I have NO IDEA what he's talking about. "YOU GOT A PROBLEM WITH ME?"
I have a habit when shocked of smiling or sort of laughing...well, you don't do this to a Moroccan man.
Me "Are we really going to have this conversation? What are you talking about?"
Him "You have a problem with me"
Me "Really, you wait till the door closes and now you say this?"
(I'm thinking...I have no idea what to do right now and no idea what is going on...)
Well, we're on a little alley in the medina of Fez. A couple folks walking by stop. The girls have NO IDEA what is provoking this. And honestly, I'm so annoyed by all the fucking touts I kinda want to have him swing at me so I can drop kick his ass with some Tae-Kwon-Do!
But I'm also not a fighter (I'm a lover, ha ha ha), and know that getting in a fight here and now would be REALLY FUCKING DUMB.
So thankfully Sonja steps in. And he tries to lead her and Leah off (but I'm thinking "this isn't safe at all"). So we end up about 20 feet further away and he thinks I'm following them, which I am. So he wants money. He says "You just want to fuck them, that's all".
Me "I don't even KNOW them! I just want to find out about their desert trip and where they went!"
Sonja tries to figure out what's up. Explain that they were just in the desert, and went trekking etc etc. Another guy standing there, and his girlfriend motion me over and we start talking. He doesn't know what's up, and I feel like he said something about me taking money from Mohammed. (I mean, I KNOW Mohammed is leading them to shops, but if they want to go, they want to go, that's fine).
Sonja comes over and says, "It's okay, he understands". And then he lights up a cigarette, as Sonja and Leah rush through what they did and the costs. It was rediculous. Then he says "How much you pay?"
I say "The guy says it'll be 320 Euro."
Mohammed "No no no. You book with me and I can do it all for 200 Euro. I was just in desert. I'm a guide".
REALLY? You threaten me, then 5 minutes later want my business. Come on!!!
Anyway, no more tensions there. End up walking with them a bit. I knew they would get harrassed, but I had to go a different direction, or there would be more problems. They were fine. Said Mohammed claimed I was "in the mafia". Yep. I'll put out a contract on you, don't you know it!
TALE 2: "FUCK YOU!!! FUCK YOUR MOTHER!!!!"
Well, the night just keeps getting better. I walk all the way to the main gate, where I knew I could get some good food. I ate alone, because my new friends were being annoyed by the "guide".
On my way back, it was maybe 8:45pm. Getting late in Morocco time. Shops all closing up. I had to walk the main "road" (it's maybe 8 feet wide) to a side one and then I would head through a passage to my hotel. Problem is...I'd never walked BACK that way before. So before leaving the cafe I looked on the map, saw some landmarks I could memorize and use, and head out...
I've got a bottle of water, I'm walking focused. I don't really answer folks when they ask the ever coming first question "Where you from? Welcome Morocco. Your second home Brother."
But then a (maybe drunk, maybe high, maybe just annoying) guy comes up.
"You want to goto Tanneries? To pottery? Buy good stuff?"
"No thank you."
"I take you, Tanneries You come."
"No, I'm good."
"It's right up here, you come, Good deal"
"No"
I turn around (because I KNOW I've gone too fucking far down the street, and more guys are sort of appearing).
So I walk past another couple
"Where you from?"
"LEAVE ME ALONE."
I never looked back
"FUCK YOU! FUCKER! FUCK YOUR MOTHER! FUCKING ASS HOLE!"Etc etc etc
Now I KNOW I'm in a bad place. I do not have a clear idea where to go. I know even if I PICK the right side alley, it is not close. Maybe 300 meters of quiet alley and dark passage. Then I have to open the fricking door, which isn't easy to open.
This is not cool.
I can't leave it alone, so I say (not really very loud) "Glad you practiced your English" as I'm walking away
Other people on the street (thank god they were there) started to look at what was going on. I pass the bank (and know that the alley is right next to it from the map). So I do a hard Left, glance quickly to see if I'm being followed...I'm not.
But I just walked into that alley. And NO ONE is around.
I quickly debate turning back onto mainstreet, going up to gate and hanging at cafe. But really, if they sit and wait, I'm fucked.
So I go for it.
I don't run, I walk, senses tuned to sounds of footsteps behind.
I slide under the passage, out onto Fatima's alley. And up to the door. Look back...
no puruit.
Open door. Slide inside.
Fuck me.
SO...
I'm a bit frazzled. Fatima's daughter wants to know if I'll be doing the 320 euro tour so we can call the guide for the pick up tomorrow. I say "I need to calm down".
I chat with Leah and Sonja, we tell stories of Mohammed and the "Fuck your mother" guys. And I think "I'm not going on this tour. It's way too expensive and I'm in no hurry...but I'm getting out of Fez".
So I have.
We toured the Jewish quarter and saw a few quick sites this morning. Had some great conversation. Ran into this Aussie couple I chatted with yesterday and then went our separate ways. Emails swapped. New friends.
I rode a grand taxi (a full size Mercedes, painted a certain color depending on the city, that goes between towns. They ALWAYS put 6 people plus the driver in them.) So it was me and another guy in the front seat. Cool...I had my arm out the window as we headed into the LUSH GREEN MOUNTAINS. Um, this is Morocco? Yep, cedar trees and other evergreens. Very pretty. Past the french inspired town of Ifrane. Very cool, kinda wish I'd stayed there. But got to Azrou.
Pretty mountains. Very nice people. The hotel guy is fun, we chat (in rough English) about travel, america, Los Angeles, his trips etc. I met another traveler at the restraunt (though I was by far the ONLY one here for awhile). His name is Mike. He got fed up with Fez and headed out today too. We'll go hiking tomorrow.
No Touts, though one guide came up to me with his friend, they had a book of testimonials and a photo book a Dutch couple had made for him of their trek. He told me what we could do, said "Just a proposal. No pressure. If you want to book, let me know later". And they left me be. And I climbed on this cool huge rock pile that's like 100 feet of volcanic awesome that overlooks the town, the mosque, the full moon and the fading sunlight.
Sweet.
Craigo
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
CULTURE SHOCK! MOROCCO!
Hi Team,
Well I'm in Fez.
It's crazy busy, big, noisy, and the only thing I can compare it to is La Paz Bolivia. Though it's STILL the holiday, so it's less noisy, less crazy and less busy than it normally is. The imperial palace and the ENORMOUS medina are crazy cool.
I had one hell of an experience yesterday, which I don't have time to write about just now. We'll say it involved lots of stinky dead goats.
I just wanted to give you a location update. And if anyone has done a multi-day camel trek in Erg Chebbi, could you please give me the information of the company / hotel you went through. It is REALLY complicated to book anything, or get a straight answer out of anyone here (it's a lot of tell you want you want to hear, or what they THINK you want to hear just to make the sale). Again....Bolivia. I'm planning on going to the desert tomorrow or the next day, and the only concrete tour I've found (met the guy) is too expensive for my taste.
And now...
CULTURE SHOCK, MOROCCO
I keep meaning to write about this, but get too wrapped up in the adventure stories, to mention this. (As "Sk8ter boy" by Avril Lavigne plays at the internet cafe....)
It's real.
CULTURE SHOCK.
I came here for it. I chose it. I wanted it. I wanted to get outside my comfort zone, and I am WAY outside of it. I haven't felt grounded but for a few fleeting moments (chilling in the olive grove on the bike ride, grabbing the grand taxi to Moulay Idriss) this whole trip. It usually takes a few days to get used to travel someplace (the oft referenced "See-Legs"), but Morocco is turning out to be quite the challenge. There tourist infrastructure is fractured at best. It exists, but it's so strange to be sleeping in someone's house. Just me. In Fez. With a family. It's very cool, it's a glimpse into something I don't normally get to see, but it's very strange. I mean, it's not everyday that you're shown "your bathroom" and there is a GOAT CARCASS hanging in the middle of the room. Yep! And later in the day they were cutting it up, sawing it in half with saws and knives and just laughing up a storm, having the best time of their lives. Admittedly, I laughed a lot too because it was so strange, and well, they were laughing and laughing is fun.
Still, it's weird.
And it is VERY hard to determine if people are being friendly or offereing you "services" (not sex services but guide services) that you may not even want. I've gotten better at saying "no thanks" and walking away, but it's a different mind set. And the pouty "goss, poor me" look you get if you dare to say no to the hard working salesman.
As many of you know, I've been to a lot of places. Morocco is the 30th country. And so far it's shaping up to be the most challenging one to travel in and function in. Sure, if I spoke french or arabic it would be a little easier, but I don't think by much. If you come from a place (like USA) where prices are posted and information is much easier to access, the Morocco experience is quite unnerving at times.
All this is to not say that it's not worth it, of course. Travel isn't always "Fun", but that doesn't mean it's not a worthwhile experience. As the end of the travel philosophy from "THE BEACH" says: "Just keep your mind open and suck in the experience. And if it hurts, you know what? It's probably worth it."
That being said, I'm REALLY ready to meet some travelers. When you book places, it seems there were always "2 american girls" or "2 german girls" that are staying there. But when you check in they have conveniently "left this morning". It could be a couple from England, it could be a group, but usually it's 2 girls. It's really funny. (And no, I'm not just seeking out 2 girls in Morocco. :). Still, I'm ready to hear how other travelers are finding Morocco, get some tips and advice about places to see and things to do that might not be tinged with the fact that they are making a percentage of their "uncles" shop or hotel or driver company. And I like travelers, they are from other places too. I'm very curious what it's like for women to travel in Morocco, and see how their experiences differ from men. (Yes Michele, I will pick your brain for more stories when I get back. Definitely!)
Culture shock.
It's what I wanted.
And if it was comfortable, I wouldn't have gotten out of my comfort zone...which is part of the main reason for travel in the first place.
CraigO
PS: Cadry, remember the "CULTURE SHOCK!" Books? Did you ever read one for Morocco?
Well I'm in Fez.
It's crazy busy, big, noisy, and the only thing I can compare it to is La Paz Bolivia. Though it's STILL the holiday, so it's less noisy, less crazy and less busy than it normally is. The imperial palace and the ENORMOUS medina are crazy cool.
I had one hell of an experience yesterday, which I don't have time to write about just now. We'll say it involved lots of stinky dead goats.
I just wanted to give you a location update. And if anyone has done a multi-day camel trek in Erg Chebbi, could you please give me the information of the company / hotel you went through. It is REALLY complicated to book anything, or get a straight answer out of anyone here (it's a lot of tell you want you want to hear, or what they THINK you want to hear just to make the sale). Again....Bolivia. I'm planning on going to the desert tomorrow or the next day, and the only concrete tour I've found (met the guy) is too expensive for my taste.
And now...
CULTURE SHOCK, MOROCCO
I keep meaning to write about this, but get too wrapped up in the adventure stories, to mention this. (As "Sk8ter boy" by Avril Lavigne plays at the internet cafe....)
It's real.
CULTURE SHOCK.
I came here for it. I chose it. I wanted it. I wanted to get outside my comfort zone, and I am WAY outside of it. I haven't felt grounded but for a few fleeting moments (chilling in the olive grove on the bike ride, grabbing the grand taxi to Moulay Idriss) this whole trip. It usually takes a few days to get used to travel someplace (the oft referenced "See-Legs"), but Morocco is turning out to be quite the challenge. There tourist infrastructure is fractured at best. It exists, but it's so strange to be sleeping in someone's house. Just me. In Fez. With a family. It's very cool, it's a glimpse into something I don't normally get to see, but it's very strange. I mean, it's not everyday that you're shown "your bathroom" and there is a GOAT CARCASS hanging in the middle of the room. Yep! And later in the day they were cutting it up, sawing it in half with saws and knives and just laughing up a storm, having the best time of their lives. Admittedly, I laughed a lot too because it was so strange, and well, they were laughing and laughing is fun.
Still, it's weird.
And it is VERY hard to determine if people are being friendly or offereing you "services" (not sex services but guide services) that you may not even want. I've gotten better at saying "no thanks" and walking away, but it's a different mind set. And the pouty "goss, poor me" look you get if you dare to say no to the hard working salesman.
As many of you know, I've been to a lot of places. Morocco is the 30th country. And so far it's shaping up to be the most challenging one to travel in and function in. Sure, if I spoke french or arabic it would be a little easier, but I don't think by much. If you come from a place (like USA) where prices are posted and information is much easier to access, the Morocco experience is quite unnerving at times.
All this is to not say that it's not worth it, of course. Travel isn't always "Fun", but that doesn't mean it's not a worthwhile experience. As the end of the travel philosophy from "THE BEACH" says: "Just keep your mind open and suck in the experience. And if it hurts, you know what? It's probably worth it."
That being said, I'm REALLY ready to meet some travelers. When you book places, it seems there were always "2 american girls" or "2 german girls" that are staying there. But when you check in they have conveniently "left this morning". It could be a couple from England, it could be a group, but usually it's 2 girls. It's really funny. (And no, I'm not just seeking out 2 girls in Morocco. :). Still, I'm ready to hear how other travelers are finding Morocco, get some tips and advice about places to see and things to do that might not be tinged with the fact that they are making a percentage of their "uncles" shop or hotel or driver company. And I like travelers, they are from other places too. I'm very curious what it's like for women to travel in Morocco, and see how their experiences differ from men. (Yes Michele, I will pick your brain for more stories when I get back. Definitely!)
Culture shock.
It's what I wanted.
And if it was comfortable, I wouldn't have gotten out of my comfort zone...which is part of the main reason for travel in the first place.
CraigO
PS: Cadry, remember the "CULTURE SHOCK!" Books? Did you ever read one for Morocco?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)